中国人不喜欢食用生食 回转寿司缘何在华大热

毛发掉发

　　日媒称，在中国，回转寿司的人气与日俱增。虽然从古至今中国人都抗拒食用生食，但作为健康食品的日本料理的风潮和有过赴日游经验的中等收入阶层的骤增，使得以毫无压力的价格在家门口就能够品尝到的“寿司”受到越来越多的关注。
　　据日本《富士产经商报》12月19日报道，“合点寿司”在上海市内和江苏省苏州市共有11家门店，均为直营模式。2008年11月，“合点寿司”一号店在上海市开门迎客，现在每间门店日均接待食客100到200人。员工共计约200人。据上海本地法人、仓地厚董事长兼总经理说：“销售额以年均20%的速度持续上升。”
　　报道称，上海是全球日本人最多的海外城市，即便如此，“合点寿司”接待的客人中95%都是中国人，仓地先生与中国本地员工一直在为如何提供符合中国人口味的菜单和服务绞尽脑汁。据他介绍，人气排名前三位的产品分别是三文鱼寿司、烤鹅肝寿司和鳗鱼寿司。一人份寿司的价格在60到100元人民币，虽然算不上便宜，但主要门店的人均消费可以轻松超越100元。
　　报道称，虽说是回转寿司，但是在中国只叫“寿司”的话是吸引不来客人的。而且菜单里还必须包括火锅或是拉面等以合理价格提供的热食。在中国，以寿司为主打产品的日本料理店都是这个样子的。
　　在服务方面，“合点寿司”也将引入了在中国并不常见的现场操作模式。仓地先生感言：“现在喜欢坐在操作台边上座位的顾客越来越多了，享用寿司的方法也在中国得到了普及。”或许赴日游经历让中国人产生了意识上的变化。
　　原料方面，都是来自长崎、鹿儿岛、爱媛县等日本出产的金枪鱼、鰤鱼、竹荚鱼，三文鱼则来自加拿大、苏格兰、智利，其余还有来自俄罗斯、阿拉斯加等地的食材。
　　另一方面，中国大陆沿海的拖网捕鱼连鱼苗也不放过，可以说已经处于无鱼可捕的状态，包括曾经经的大型水产基地大连在内的近海也基本上没有渔获。
　　报道称，在中国，为了提供日式服务，在开设新店时更重要的或许是对中国员工的培训。仓地说：“像在日本那样说一句把这个活儿干了是不行的。不仅要说，还要手把手示范，我觉得培训才是经营之道。”
　　门店里干活儿麻利的店员也维系了人气。21岁的魏宁是一名来自江苏的女店员，她对此深有感触：“三年前刚进公司的时候，社内培训搞得非常细，很不习惯，但现在我觉得这就是日本的文化。工作的同时也学习到很多门店管理方面的知识。”入社两年就被提拔为副店长的蔡远东今年30岁，来自吉林，他说：“通过对料理和服务的评价，我们力求自己的工作能够促使顾客再次光临。我还想在这家店再多学点东西，以后能开一家自己的店。”
　　当地法人“上海合点寿司餐饮管理有限公司”由位于琦玉县熊谷市的RDC公司百分百出资，在上海拥有自有资金128万美元，完全以直营模式经营。现有门店来店人数的持续增长虽然是好消息，但直营店扩张也是有局限的。
　　目前“合点寿司”在上海和苏州的直营店数量超过10家，仓地先生说：“如何在中国市场开展下一步的经营战略，2017年或许成为决胜之年。”
　　在对华业务的基础上，仓地有着要把日本食文化更多推向海外的强烈意愿。但是让他苦恼的是，与其他国家相比，“日本政府和地方自治体提供的帮助并不多”。
　　据仓地说，在中国举行的国际水产品展览会上，俄罗斯、新西兰等国都是由国家投入大笔预算强势推广自己的水产品，而日本大部分情况都是各干各的，推广力很弱。如今中国消费者对日本食材的关注度越来越高，正是推广的好机会。
　　报道称，“不能安于现状”是仓地先生在中国开展业务的哲学，只有在跨越不曾在日本想象到的多重困难之后才能在中国市场期待成功。
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