马丁内斯和他的客栈

风刀霜剑

　　陈长才：江苏省摄影家协会会员，2013年、2014年连续两年获得全国伯奇杯创意摄影大赛优秀奖，2015年第25届全国摄影艺术展获得艺术类优秀奖。
　　古巴，加勒比海的一颗明珠，老牌的社会主义，当今世界为数不多还严格实行计划经济制度的国家。12天，走过哈瓦那、圣克拉拉、特立尼达、西恩福克斯四个城市，住民居客栈，乘老爷的士，走大街，串小巷，仔细探秘这个神秘的国家和民族。
　　由于美国对其经济封锁50年，国家经济基本运行在独立自主、自给自足的状态。基础设施、城市建设几十年不变，城市之间没有快速铁路、高速公路，城市内也没有高架立交，更没有现代化高楼大厦，城市建筑大都是过去西班牙殖民统治时期留下的，虽已破旧，其典型巴洛克风格魅力彰显十足。在这里，上学、就业、住房、医疗、副食品等都实行国家统一安排，计划供应。人均收入15美元左右，合人民币100元左右，收入虽低，但人们过得似乎也很幸福、快乐。
　　在哈瓦那住的民居客栈，户主马丁内斯，一六十岁左右大叔，一米八的大个，典型西班牙人后裔，浓眉碧眼，高高的鼻梁上架着副精致的金属框架眼镜，每天都是胡子刮得光光，一顶不知何时的旧布渔夫帽，从早到晚一直戴在头上,没事就会趴在阳台上，观望街上来往的行人和车辆。大叔总是满面笑容，西班牙语加简单英语跟我们交谈，加大音量，夸张地挥舞着手势，生怕我们没有听懂他的话。马丁大叔和太太都是中学退休教师，一个女儿也是小学教师，已成家，客栈生意忙时也会来帮父母照应。大叔家在二楼，典型的西班牙巴洛克风格建筑，层高足有四米多，四间宽敞的房间，两间客厅，一间厨房，足有三百平米。腾出两间做客栈，两间自家用，客厅是共用，大叔每天都亲自精心布置的很温馨。
　　大叔喜欢喝咖啡，每天都会为我们送来香香的热咖啡，还自豪地告诉我们：这是他亲自研磨和冲泡的。在我们品尝后竖起大拇指夸奖味道好极了的时候，大叔得意的笑声在高高的客厅里回响……我用带去的袖珍翻译机，用西班牙文和他艰难的交流。得知：他家是个老革命家族，父亲和叔叔都是当年跟随卡斯特罗闹革命的老游击队员，祖国独立后，国家分配了宽裕的住房，现在才有条件拿出两间房间来做客栈，严格执行政府规定的游客登记制度和定价，每间每天25欧元，政府税收抽走20欧元，目的是防止出现国民贫富差距。马丁大叔说，我们的物质条件是差了点，但是我们这里没有环境污染，没有上学、就业、住房、医疗的压力，我们生活的都很有尊严。”
　　站在街口，看着来来往往的男女老少，他们身上没有时装、脸上没有化妆、手中没有手机和奶茶，但个个满面春风，自信满满，这大概就是马丁大叔所说的尊严吧。
　　恰逢周末，路边一酒吧门洞大开，门口过道里，吉他兼歌手、萨克斯、手鼓、沙球四人小乐队奏起节奏明快的加勒比风情音乐，一群老头老太太，虽没有漂亮服装，但也是精心打扮，伴随音乐就在街边简陋的过道里欢快的翩翩起舞。没有沙发，没有酒水，他们尽情地唱着、跳着，一曲又一曲，有几个买菜路过的大妈、大爷，放下菜篮也旋转进来……引得很多我们这些来观光旅游的各国“老外”们，纷纷前来驻足观赏，取出相机、手机不停地拍照……
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