百年浦口火车站 回归“民国风”

风刀霜剑

　　13年前，随着最后一班客运列车停运，有着百年历史的浦口火车站沉寂至今。近日，扬子晚报记者走访发现，这座国内唯一完整保留历史风貌的老站，开始搭起围挡进行文物修缮。下一步，周边3平方公里将以车站建筑为中心打造一座“民国风情特色小镇”，计划2020年建成。而文保专家在修缮中发现，车站附属建筑还是南京最早采用钢混结构的建筑之一，而车站大楼四周的走廊，也是南京最早一批采用进口热轧H型钢建造的。今天看似稀松平常，百年前却是最顶尖的进口技术。扬子晚报全媒体记者 张可 杨民仆 文/摄
　　百年前的“高端洋气”：
　　欧式红房子连成片，修缮要还本来面貌
　　国内老火车站不少，但绝大部分只有一座候车大楼，浦口火车站的特点就在于候车大楼、月台、雨廊、售票房、贵宾楼、高级职工宿舍等主体及配套建筑，都被系统性地保存下来，堪称最完整的“百年车站”。
　　此次文物修缮属于一期工程，为浦口津浦路12号的7栋民国建筑和1栋50年代的公寓楼，其中民国建筑是当年津浦铁路管理局的高级职工宿舍楼，目前属浦口区不可移动文物。它们位于候车大楼的西北侧，从大楼广场前步行只要5分钟路程。
　　扬子晚报记者在现场看到，房屋顶是青灰色的机平瓦，外立面是土黄色的水泥砂浆粉刷，若不是这些建筑具有类似“小二楼别墅”的形制，与一般民房无太多区别。
　　东南大学建筑学院博士生导师淳庆副教授负责编制文物修缮方案，他告诉记者，从2016年上半年开始，他们就开始研究这批建筑的历史，进行详细的测绘和勘查。“我们发现，房屋现在的风貌和历史原貌有很大不同，主要是因为百年来被人为多次改建了。”淳庆告诉记者，1914年建成时的这批建筑，为清水红砖砖墙，屋顶采用红色金属屋面，看上去呈现出一片红房子，每栋建筑都有一部楼梯，室内还有壁炉，是典型的欧式风格建筑。
　　虽然建筑整体情况与原貌差异很大，但很多细节上还能看到时代的缩影。在淳庆的指引下，记者看到，建筑上有几处外立面的水泥砂浆粉刷层脱落了，露出当年精美的红色清水砖墙及白色石灰勾缝。
　　百年前的“顶尖技术”：
　　这里有着南京最早的一批钢筋混凝土建筑
　　若追问为什么浦口火车站建筑是英伦风，首先要了解津浦铁路的历史。
　　1899年，清政府分别与英商汇丰银行、德商德华银行签署借款合同，开始筹备建设，此时就已商定，这条铁路以山东韩庄(今枣庄)为界，北段由德商承办，南段由英商承办。1908年、1909年，南北段分别启动建设。1911年，津浦铁路筑成，同时浦口火车站开始设计建造。“由于浦口火车站属于英国商人承办的南段，所以按照英国风格设计。对比之下，被称为‘远东第一站’的山东济南的老火车站因为属于津浦路的北段，所以呈现德国建筑的风格。可惜的是，济南老车站在上世纪90年代被拆除。”淳庆说。
　　在进行文物研究与修缮的过程中，淳庆发现，浦口火车站建筑中的月台、雨廊等附属建筑，采用了钢筋混凝土的结构。“我们注意到，它是南京最早的一批钢混建筑，1914年建成，仅比长江对岸的和记洋行的钢混厂房晚2年，这两个建筑都是英国洋行设计的。上海最早钢筋混凝土建筑是1908年的电话局大楼，武汉最早钢筋混凝土建筑是1905年的汉口平和打包厂。这一批建筑在国内首开‘钢混’之先河。”
　　“1875年，世界第一座钢筋混凝土建筑在美国纽约落成，至1900年之后钢筋混凝土结构才在工程界得到了大规模的使用。由于当时钢筋和混凝土都是‘高大上’的建筑材料，主要用于一些重要的建筑。”淳庆说。
　　未来这里“昔日重现”：
　　打造“民国风情”特色小镇，预计2020年建成
　　记者了解到，早在2015年浦口火车站就开始启动搬迁。此次浦口火车站的文物修缮，是为整个车站地块的打造做前期准备。项目建设方浦口区建设发展有限公司相关负责人告诉扬子晚报记者，目前该地块的定位，是打造“民国风情”特色小镇，而整座小镇最具价值的文化遗产，就是车站建筑。“所以现阶段首要是保护文物，一方面恢复文物建筑的旧日风貌，另一方面还要对这些建筑的病害进行加固修缮处理，通过文物部门的验收后，再启动地块打造。”
　　这位负责人介绍，整个小镇的打造建设预计需要3年时间，力争在2020年建成。“功能定位上，我们主张以文化消费为主，不宜做餐饮，同时引入影视等文创类型产业项目入驻。”他告诉记者，由于浦口火车站的建筑产权属于铁路部门，目前功能规划还在商议过程中，有待最终出台。
　　专家感悟
　　世界领先的“样板工程” 曾激荡着国人的内心
　　做浦口火车站修缮方案时，我发现这片建筑的最大特点就是“领先”。您可能要说，这些建筑用的钢筋混凝土和钢结构有什么特别的，满大街都是。但把时间放在100多年前，这可就是稀罕物了，足以在国际级的博览会上引发“强势围观”。
　　中国的建筑发展，从考古实物来看，先后经历夯土的、纯木的、砖土的、砖木的等。近代以来，国外工业化生产的水泥和混凝土传入中国，进而又出现了砖混结构的建筑，而浦口火车站的月台和雨廊建筑采用钢混结构，在当时带来的震撼是巨大的。有了钢材做“主心骨”，建筑变得更加安全可靠了，可达到前人未能企及的高度和规模，而不用担心倾覆。那些旧时代的砖木结构的豪华宫殿，在工业时代的钢铁大楼前，着实矮了一截。
　　中国金属冶炼的历史非常悠久，但铸造刀剑、农具与锻造建材，不可同日而语。钢材最值得称道的特性不在坚硬，而在柔韧，它能够通过微小的形变，承受、化解强大外力，钢材含碳量越低，就越为坚韧。想做到这点，需要有成熟的工业技术，对于当时刚从农业国向近代化转型的中国，显然超出了国力之外。
　　具体到浦口火车站的建筑上，更是如此。例如车站大楼四周走廊所用的钢材叫“热轧H型钢”。在上世纪一二十年代，热轧H型钢在西方国家也算是顶尖的技术了。当浦口火车站建筑上发现“热轧H型钢”时，心里着实吃了一惊。你知道国内什么时候，才成熟掌握这一技术吗?还要度过大半个世纪，等到七八十年代的时候!
　　所以，从设计风格和所用材料来看，浦口火车站是一座“进口”建筑。但它不只是当时西方列强向落后中国炫耀强大国力的产物，更是“强心针”或“催化剂”，激荡着每一个不甘落后的实业家的内心。以吕彦直为代表的中国第一代建筑师们，可能都考察过浦口火车站，进入30年代后，南京主城区那些中国自行设计、建造的民国建筑就一座接一座拔地而起了。
　　浦口火车站打造一新后，和长江对岸的滨江风光带遥相呼应，必将成为旅游热点。如果未来您来这里游玩时，了解车站建造前后的历史与背景，那么站在候车大楼前、月台雨廊下、红房别墅间，心里或许还会像百年前的同胞们一样，掀起阵阵波澜。
　　东南大学建筑学院 博士生导师 副教授 淳庆(张可 整理)
　　浦口火车站 名人大事记
　　浦口火车站可能是整个南京范围内，历代名人涉足最多地方之一。淳庆向记者列举了浦口火车站历史上的名人大事记：
　　1918年，朱自清去北京上学，在浦口火车站与父亲话别，写下《背影》。
　　1919年，孙中山在《建设》杂志上发表《实业计划》一文，认为交通运输必须放在近代工业首位，把浦口火车站列入建设重点。
　　1919年春，毛泽东送湖南留法学生去上海，在浦口火车站丢失了一双布鞋，陷入困顿，幸遇老乡，解了燃眉之急(斯诺《西行漫记》)。
　　1929年5月28日，装运孙中山先生的灵柩的火车通过津浦铁路从北平运抵浦口火车站，在这里稍作停靠后通过浦口码头过江，最后安葬于中山陵。
　　1949年，邓小平和陈毅由合肥到达浦口火车站，当夜过江，驱车进驻总统府，迎来南京解放的曙光。
　　1968年，南京长江大桥通车，浦口火车站的客运暂时停止。1985年再次恢复客运。2004年，浦口火车站客运正式停止。
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